Page 2 The project begins Page 3 Front end and doors Page 4 Body framing Page 5 Wheel tubs and more framing Page 6 Door openings and more on the body Page 7 The frame Page 8 Steering, shocks and engine mounts Page 9 CAD, lasercut parts and intake. Page 10 Transmission and engine mounts. Page 11 Roof and floor. Page 12 Body and engine details. Page 13 Fuel tank. Page 14 Pedals and steering. Page 15 Odds and ends. Karkmotuning

New wheel tubs were made from four pieces cut with the plasma.       The edges were shrunk to make for a nicely rounded shape.

The two parts TIG welded together here.

After a lot of grinding and work on the English wheel, the result looks very nice. This is the first time I've tried using an English wheel and I'm happy with the result so far.

A surprising amount of sheet metal had to be cut off, leaving a pretty small tub to weld in. (June 2021)

After welding the tub, the rusty bottom lip of the body, between the front of the tub and the B-pillar, was repaired. This piece was made to fit there, and this is effectively the view from the inside.

Here the bottom piece is welded in, and it's also gotten some zinc spray squirted on. The part in the picture below will attach to this piece to form a strong profile to add some rigidity.

5/16" (8mm) holes have been drilled for rosette welds, and some primer sprayed on to provide a bit of rust protection.

The new part ties in nicely with the door structure design. The floor will be welded to the lip at the bottom.

As the tub was widened inwards, the profile on the lip of the wheel arch had to be extended around it. A piece of sheetmetal was cut to fit, and the upper edge was bent using a tipping die in the beadroller, and the edge was shrunk in a shrinker/stretcher until it fit.

The end result seen here after welding and grinding.

After the body had been tacked back together, a new windshield frame had to be made. The windshield is a leaned back on this body style, and to get it a more typical 1930 look, the bottom of the windshield frame was moved backwards about 3/4" (20 mm), and a strip of sheetmetal welded in. This reduced the lean of the windshield a bit, as it looked a bit off.

The whole windshield frame, version 2, was welded in, and now as it's not leaning as much as before, it looks better. ( July 2021)

To get the windshield frame square and flat, two pieces of sheetmetal were cut out to act as sight rulers. This to ensure that the glass, once made, will fit.

At this time wheels and tires were acquired to determine how the rear fenders are going to be made, and to decide in what position the rear axle will be mounted. (August 2021)

With 10" wide rims with zero offset and 275/60-15" tires, the rear fenders only need to be widened a moderate 1-1/4" (about 30 mm).

The wheel position in the fender opening was determined and the rear axle was tack welded to the frame. Now the rear fender could be removed. A new repair piece for the fender lip was made and welded in. Seen here tried into position prior to cutting and welding. (Late September 2021)

Again, as the fender tubs were widened inwards, the fender lip had to be extended. This time a sheet metal screw technique was tried. This proved effective, so clecos are added to the wishlist now, they would be more convinient in use than screws. The new fender lip tacked in the second pic. (October 2021)

All welded and ground smooth, the wheelwell looks much prettier now.

Of course, everything had to be done on the driver's side, the same as on the right hand side.

NEXT: Door openings and more on the body         Back to Karkmotuning