Page 2 The project begins Page 3 Front end and doors Page 4 Body framing Page 5 Wheel tubs and more framing Page 6 Door openings and more on the body Page 7 The frame Page 8 Steering, shocks and engine mounts Page 9 CAD, lasercut parts and intake. Page 10 Transmission and engine mounts. Page 11 Roof and floor. Page 12 Body and engine details. Page 13 Fuel tank. Page 14 Pedals and steering. Page 15 Odds and ends. Karkmotuning

Planning to finish up the body and get the work done to it that has to be done, before lifting it off the frame for paint. So checking off items from the to do list, the rear most part of the floor was made. There was a 2" slice missing. Then there was also a last bit missing in the middle of the transmission tunnel. (December 2023)

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The front end of the frame rails need some attention. They looked a bit wobbly, so the flanges were hammered with two big hammers, the bigger one used as a makeshift dolly. The material is about 1/8" thick steel, so it took some beating.

The top and bottom flanges were shortened about 5/8" in hope of getting the exact right look, then the ends of the frame rails were capped with a piece of 1/8" by 1-3/8" sheetmetal, cut like a flat bar, and bent around a pipe. Some welding and grinding later they're done.

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The fenders mocked up, and with a bit of photoshopping the result is a bit of a preview of what's planned.

Now is as good time as ever to take the body off the frame. The frame was unbolted from the garage floor, doors were removed, body unbolted etcetera. The engine hoist is useful here.

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The body was moved from the frame to a svivel wheel dolly, so it can be easily moved while working on the frame.

The carbs, intake and exhaust primaries were removed. It's surprising how small the engine looks now.

After a couple days break, the engine and transmission were pulled from the frame. As the engine and transmission aren't meant to work together, a pice had to be out of the bellhousing for the starter, since it's located differently in this application.

Since bigger rear wheels will be used, than originally planned, the front four link mounts have to be lowered about 1-1/4" to compensate. Left hand ones are tacked in their new position here. As can be seen the lower frame part that goes under the prop shaft is partly cut. The frame needs to be lower here so there's no risk of the prop shaft hitting it.

Parts for the new center piece for the frame made.

The pieces were welded, starting with good welds on the inside, to make the little crossmember sturdy, even when it's ground on the outside.

After completely welding and grinding, it looks like this.

The right hand side four link bar mounts were tacked in and then everything was fully welded.

Brackets for the strut rod ends were made. They're two slightly different sizes, because the frame slopes downward towards the back.

Strut rod ends ready for paint. (January 2024)

The steering box is mounted inside the frame rail, and a sturdy support bracket is made to make certain that nothing moves under load.

Support bracket mounted to the frame with eight M12 bolts. (February 2024)

When finally all items were ticked off on the to do-list, the garage was heated up and the frame was hung between a ceiling hook and the engine hoist and sprayed with a good coat of epoxy primer.

The next day the frame along with control arms and strutrods was painted with gloss black industrial 2K paint.

The frame was rolled it back to its place with the engine hoist and placed on jack stands.

New bushings and balljoints were mounted to the control arms. This is slow work, the old fasteners that are still being used have to be cleaned, details and parts have to be painted and of course, some parts are still missing and have to be ordered.

Control arms and strut rodstrial mounted, springs and shocks still missing.   Brake caliper brackets and GM calipers seem to fint the spindle like they're supposed to.

The Mercedes-Benz W124 steering box cleaned, painted and mounted in its place.

Same with the idler arm, which also got a new repair kit with bushings and that big bolt. Torqued to its specifications, the idler arm is really stiff to operate. No slop here at least.

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